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Category Archives: Commentaries & Critiques

Backyard BBQ’s, THE GREEN EGG and TECHNOLOGY

Voila!! Pulled Pork.

Voila!! Pulled Pork un-pulled.(click to enlarge images.

Are any of you old enough to remember the shallow red painted pans that sat on  flimsy tripods of aluminum legs and along with 5 pounds of charcoal briquettes and a pint of starter fluid, sold for 15 or $20 just about anywhere and whose purchase signaled the beginning of spring and  the barbecue season?

Through the years those relics have morphed, passing through various stages. First, someone got the idea to upgrade the metal pans to cast iron furnaces on wheels with space for propane tanks. Then they added kitchen counters to either side so the outdoor chef could keep his grabbing, flipping and skewering tools readily available. (Most of the outdoor gourmands were men.)

Cedar chips, chef hats, aprons, thermostats and expensive full-color coffee table barbecuing books soon followed. All of this was meant to improve the image if not the food of the middle class captain of backyard Barbies. But alas, the world has turned once more and things ain’t as simple as they used to be.

Welcome the Green Egg. A 145 pound behemoth whose  lid requires a forklift to raise and whose temperature tops out at  800°F .

The large size Green Egg, there’s an extra large, will set you back over $1000 and that’s before you find a way to hold it upright and accessible.  And you can no longer burn charcoal briquettes, they are carcinogenic, you must purchase lump charcoal.. But if joining the latest culinary queue is your bag, some very special treats await.

I know whereof I speak. My son Bryce has a Green Egg (large size) and he knows how to use it to advantage. I have tasted his Green Egg steaks, prime ribs and his crème de la crème pulled pork.  Even without the Green Egg he’s a terrific cook and much to the delight of family, and friends, the Egg has provided him with experimental opportunities that satisfy his natural   inquisitiveness for things technological as well as culinary.

First, a little background. A few years ago Bryce and his wife Jill bought the house next door, gutted it  and extended it by adding a huge kitchen, with an eight burner gas stove, a large living room and upstairs, a master bed room en suite with hot tub. Bryce built  a sound system capable of providing each room with its own music and individualized ambience. Also, the entire house is on the network and this point is crucial to his Green Egg pièce de résistance, pulled pork.

A properly cooked pulled pork requires up to 30 hours of cooking with variable temperatures. My son is a busy executive and without modern technology, his pulled pork recipe would be beyond him.

So send in the Internet, computers, Wi-Fi  and Twitter.

First Bryce purchased a Stoker. The Stoker controls the Egg’s internal temperature by pumping  air into the vents of the Egg. The more air, the higher the temperature. The Stoker measures the internal temperature of the Egg and sends a signal back to  the control unit in the stoker which then signals the fan to increase or decrease its speed. There are also probes that measure the internal temperature of the meat.

The Stoker

The Stoker

Bryce then connected his stoker to his home network. This allows him to monitor and control his BBQ remotely. He also set his unit to send him Twits to his Twitter account so he is able to monitor the cooking situation from anywhere.

The Green Egg. w: Fan at base.

The Green Egg. w: Fan at base.

Thus he can begin a pulled pork weekend on Thursday evening.  At work on Friday he can Monitor the temperature, making necessary and sometimes minute adjustments from his office to maintain a constant cooking temperature of 200 F.

Wired up and rain guard

Wired up and rain guard

When my wife Eleanor, a particularly rabid fan of pulled pork, tasted Bryces’s completed confection, there was silence. Then followed an Ohhh of ecstatic dimensions only a Mother and pulled pork aficionado could produce. As a product of the rotary phone era, I appreciate having my son nearby.

 
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Posted by on November 22, 2011 in Articles, Commentaries & Critiques

 

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Peter Oundjian – Did he approve this message?

Gustav Mahler

Gustav Mahler, spiked hair, eye-liner and a necklace of bullets

Luminato ad,Toronto Star, Saturday, 28 May, 2011

The people who created, approved and distributed the ad for Luminato, exhibit a  distressingly high level of  vulgarity and lack of respect.  It looks like something a young school boy would do to a history book photo, but this ad was done, I think, by adults.  There can be no doubt about the ad’s purpose. Explained in words Luminato will understand, it’s to make moola and put butts in seats.

The authors of this ad thought they were doing their job.  Audience attendance at concerts of western abstract art music is generally down and perhaps the clarity and visceral effects achieved by modern recordings and hefty ticket prices have kept young people glued to their iPods and out of concert seats.  Of course there is the recent economic disaster.

All of the aforementioned and many more subtle factors are driving administrators to make ever more desperate attempts to attract audiences and raise money.  Also reasons I believe, for the bewilderingly ugly advertisement reproduced above.

Peter Oundjian was born in 1955 about the time Leonard Bernstein began to bring his Mahler message to the  public. Bernstein’s passion for Mahler precipitated  today’s glut of Mahler music, particularly his symphonies, cycles of which have been made by every conductor with a recording contract.  Mahler was a welcomed financial boost to the recording industry and symphony orchestra attendance. All five of the recent  Royal Conscergebouw Orchestra concerts in Toronto featured a Mahler symphony and all were mostly sold out. The last of these yearly concerts featured Mahler’s Ninth Symphony.

Tim Rice, the former Washington Post, and Pulitzer Prize winning music critic said he’d rather listen to anything by Rossini then anything by Mahler. I happen to agree. And yet I have as many Mahler CDs in my collection as I have of any other composer save some contemporary favorites and a slew of piano pickers. When I ask myself why I collected all these recorded performances, I am reduced to a few basic answers.

Mahler employs vast orchestral resources – who can object to those  hammer strokes of fate? –  and uses them in dramatic ways, usually during climactic movement endings which for length and loudness rival anything in the orchestral repertoire. These are juxtaposed with simple folk tunes,  Klezmer and German beer hall music.  Mahler’s rubatos, combined with passionate string glissandi, contend with any Hollywood depiction of unrequited love. I can only absorb so much of Mahler’s angst. Enough already!  So I listen to  Rossini. (My latest buzz is his opera IL Viaggio a Reims.)

To whom was the Luminato ad addressed? As I gaze at the desecrated face of Mahler, I try to think of anyone I’ve seen at a  Toronto Symphony concert with spiked hair, eye-liner and a necklace of bullets. Or, anyone who socializes with same. The point seems to be, “Let’s shock customers into looking at the ad.” They succeeded. I looked.

The only weakness is the ad’s failure to make me want to attend the concert. Hyperbole. Isn’t it grand? Is hyperbole Mahler’s Fifth or pathetically juvenile marketing stratagems, or both?

 
 

Koerner Concert Hall – Esprit Orchestra, Amadeus Choir, Nexus, Hillary Hahn, Pierre Laurent Aimard, and the Edward Westin Concert Hall.

Koerner Hall with Esprit Orchestra.
Koerner Hall with Esprit Orchestra.

The building on Toronto’s Bloor Street West which houses The Royal Conservatory of Music, The Glenn Gould School of Music and the Koerner Concert Hall, is wedged between Philosopher’s Walk and a small, uncovered university stadium.

The Royal Conservatory was raised in Victorian splendor, but in recent years its creaky floors had become a constant reminder of its age and the fragility of its pedagogical standing . A fund raiser was begun to bring the building into the twenty first century.  A modern expansion in stainless steel and sheets of glass was built, the concert hall its linchpin and major attraction.

After a schedule of opening concerts, praise from musicians and audiences was ecstatic. A national newspaper called it “The Temple of Tone”. I suspect there were many  bruised egos in the artistic community  when the performers chosen for  the Hall’s opening season were announced. Some local ensembles, able to afford the higher rent and hoping no doubt to rejuvenate themselves and their audiences, moved their concert series, in whole or part, to Koerner.  Practically overnight, it became the place to play and the hot ticket.

Hyperbole abounds when a new hall is launched. No matter the flaws, it’s new. A lot of money, reputations and hopes rest on its success or perception thereof. If it doesn’t work, well .  .  .  Roy Thompson Hall, the home of the Toronto Symphony, was a good example of the Emperor’s New Clothes. The symphony board of directors was intimately involved with fund raising and a Simpson Co. executive was named point man. One of his most memorable statements was in defense of the acoustician chosen for the concert hall. “Recently he’s had two major failures and Toronto will be the beneficiary of his mistakes”.

A conspiracy settled over the project. Only good news was wanted. Conductors, hastily attached themselves and their organizations to this latest Edifice Complex erection. “Finally we can hear ourselves” said a symphony musician. But it didn’t take long for truth to begin creeping, however slowly, through the cracks in the concrete of corporate, artistic and  administrative hubris. James Galway, new to Roy Thompson and riding the crest of a fabulous career, stunned his audience by saying the hall’s acoustic was terrible and he would never play in the hall again. He didn’t.

After twenty years of silence, Galway’s comment emboldened Toronto’s senior music critic to suggest something should be done to improve the hall. I’m sure his suggestion,coming as it did from a local, had as much effect on the Symphony board and the hall’s subsequent six month renovation as did anything else.

Koerner Hall exists in large part because of  the beneficence of Michael Koerner a resident of Toronto who is an avid supporter of the arts. He and his wife  Sonja gave $8,000,000 towards the Royal Conservatory building fund including a collection of 18th century music instruments.

The Koerner concerts I’ve attended provided a wide spectrum of acoustical challenges: a symphony orchestra, a percussion ensemble, a choir, a violin recital and a piano recital.  The most successful  was the percussion concert. The house was sold out and I was seated mid way on the main floor and clearly heard the strokes of each player and their differences.

My seat for the orchestra concert was two thirds back and in a side box. The house was very close to full. An  accordion concerto was performed  with the composer as soloist. During the entire work,  I could see his feet keeping time, but, aside from a short solo introduction, I did not hear a note from his instrument. Friends in the side balcony experienced the same defect, but friends who sat on the main floor heard everything. The CBC producer told me he had problems recording the soloist because he was seated a couple of feet too far  upstage.

The choir stood on risers at the back of the stage and its sound was clear and fulsome. I spoke with the choir’s director and she told me the risers in that position created the best sound.

For the violin recital the house was full and my seat was five rows from the stage on the left side of the main floor. During the first half, the violin had an unsettling whine, a sharp, almost irritating sound. The tone problems were gone during the second half which was devoted to solo repertoire. The violinist had moved towards the audience about three steps. From my perspective, that’s all it took to correct the problem.

I also sat very close to the stage, again on the main floor, for the piano recital and at one point heard very high harmonics that echoed eerily  after certain chords in the low register. Otherwise, all was clear.

By relating these experiences, my intention is not to suggest Koerner Hall is burdened with its own style of Emperor’s Clothes. It’s far from that. It is a welcome addition to Toronto performing spaces. It seats about 1,100 people which is a perfect size for major chamber music players. But Koerner has acoustical issues that will need to be tweaked. The question is, how long will it take for artists, administrators, conductors and audiences to face up to its flaws and explore corrective modifications?  About ten miles north there is ample reason to act sooner then later.

The George Westin Recital Hall is one of Canada’s and the world’s precious gifts to music. Wigmore Hall in London comes first to mind when I contemplate comparable performance spaces. Yet Westin Is Toronto’s musical remittance man.  Its exile is plagued by location. Anything north of Highway 401, the great multi lane expressway which cuts a swath across the top  of the city, is felt  by concert goers to be a kind of Ultimate Thule.  If they have to go north of the 401, they’d rather go to dinner south of it. Too bad. Westin Recital Hall is a concert hallmark, once experienced, never forgotten.

I began this posting with the idea of writing a critique of Pierre Laurent Aimard’s piano recital. I met pianist Stephen Clarke in the lobby before the concert and his first words were, “This is the do not miss concert”. And it proved to be.

George Westin Recital Hall.
George Westin Recital Hall.